![]() ![]() ![]() Thankfully, I KNEW to SAVE my old AC documents folder which had my previous settings. The wheel did not coincide with the wheel in the game at all, no matter what i did to try to adjust. Did the wizard, made sure everything was pretty much the same as before and it doesn't drive at all like it did, almost un driveable. Anyway, i recently started completely over with a new install and fresh AC folder in documents which IS your personal settings. I'm not even going to include PEDALS or FFB as those are pretty simple, BRAKING being the most important setting possibly. There's has to be a reason all those different adjustments are in the steering setup in options. But it's got me wondering just how many drivers have this problem and when to KNOW what's best. Well that was much better and I no longer had to adjust for each car. Also setting the steering ratio to 270 degrees out of 1080.Finally someone at Race Department worked with me and suggested I do the manual wizard and let it decide what ratio to use. I mean just a couple clicks out of 100 would make a BIG difference in turning. I started out using a preset for theT300/ T500 even tho i am using a T150, some cars would turn, some wouldn't, so i had to keep adjusting the steering sensitivity in Options for different cars. After 1 year of racing SRS in AC, I have noticed some things. I'll try to explain as I feel there are many Sim Racers that are not up to speed (including myself) because of settings possibly. I have to take he time to test this on a fresh LFS install to see if I can reproduce it.This may be a bit long because there's so many, many factors involved. I can manage to regain it with pressing shift+G couples of times and go to pit and spec in a random way. I am also having an other strange problem, but I think it is more LFS related, I am loosing the shifter (in car) if I by mistake or not hit the shift+G keys (auto/sequential/shifter) and set it back to shifter, it keeps working in option/controller but not in the car any more, it seems stuck on the sequential. I gave it more than 4 weeks time to get use to it and in most cars I am 1,5 sec slower, I am already getting older I can't loose more speed due to the wheel. Now I was wondering if some of you are experimenting the same thing before I decide to RMA it. I have tried many settings to try to reduce this, two things seems to work moderately, 1) setting FFB in driver to 105/0/0 which ends up being non linear and 2) use a bit of centring spring which I hate with passion. Ok noise is bad, specially when you invest for that reason, but I could live with it, the problem is that this weak FFB in the middle is becoming a real problem when you have to control the car with fast wheel motions, the steps between strong/weak/strong prevent me from being consistent and often ends up is a spin.I am not talking about a dead zone, there is no dead zone on it, it is just that the FFB don't seems to take effect on that +/- 5cm zone in the middle. I have a very weak (almost non-existent) FFB in the middle of the wheel, about 5cm long, it is making two kinds of noises, a peep like a bird signing in the background when moving slowly in that zone (like when you are on the strait and doing small changes of direction), and does clac clac (knocking noise) every time i switch (fast) from left to right. I have tested it with and without profiler (which I normally don't use). PC's is my business, so OS and drivers are properly installed and optimized. I'd like to ask a question to G27 users, I have bought one 4 weeks ago and I am having some troubles with it, checked the logitech and LFS forums, but I couldn't get a description of what I am experiencing.įirst, FFB settings in driver are 100/0/0, no centring spring, I use win7 64bits, I respect wheel turn for each cars in LFS with FFB between 20 and 40 depending on the car. ![]()
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